Hikers Explore

"It doesn’t seem real." Roger spoke softly from the stern of the canoe.

"Yeah, it’s pretty eerie.” Jenn took in the scene from her vantage point at the bow. I floated nearby in my kayak, not having much to add.

It was the summer of 2017. I was visiting Ontario in the wake of one of its worst flood seasons on record. From the seat of a kayak, paddling with my two trip partners among the islands that dot a little corner of Thousand Islands National Park, the effects of the flooding were startling. Narrow waterways led directly into the front doors of empty cottages. Water dotted with flotsam lapped gently at windowpanes. Boathouses sat abandoned, thick with water and partially submerged, unsettling as we paddled by in respectful silence.

It was a cold Vancouver spring when Jenn and I considered our options for a summer paddling trip near her new home in Ottawa. On paper, the park had a lot to recommend it: clear, fresh waters, a relatively small visitor count and a seemingly endless selection of islands to explore: green splatter paint dotting a rippling blue canvas. 

We were discovering that, in trip planning as in online dating, what’s offered is rarely the full story: places, like people, are always both more and less than what you expect.

Day 1

Kristin Warkentin

We began our trip in the quaint Ontario town of Gananoque, one of the gateways to the park. More specifically, we were in the bookstore. Jenn, who makes fast friends with everyone she meets, received a brief history lesson from the store’s owner (who claimed Thousand Islands dressing originated in a castle on one of the region’s islands), while Jenn’s friend Roger, the third member of our party, picked up several autobiographies of '80s pop icons. You could say we had a lazy start.

As a Westerner, I was still getting my bearings—a feat I found challenging without an ocean and mountains to help navigate. I struggled to follow what the employee at 1,000 Islands Kayaking told us about our route.

The map was zoomed in on the corner of the park closest to our put-in. With a system of colour codes and dotted lines, it showed private islands, motorized boating right-of-ways and numbered buoys, many of which, apparently, didn’t actually have a number on them. “You’re going to head this way,” she indicated on the map, “count three islands and then cross. The motorized boats have the right of way, so don’t hang out in the middle.” 

Okay, count to three and avoid speed boats. It sounded straightforward.

It wasn’t.

There were more than three islands. Everything was an island, and when you got closer, sometimes, it was two islands. Luckily, Jenn and Roger held the maps, and I followed the path of their canoe in my rented kayak with religious compliance, not really having any idea where we were going. 

 Jenn Williams

As Canada's first National Park east of the Rockies, Thousand Islands flies surprisingly under the radar. It is small, encompassing only 24.4 square kilometers of the aptly named Thousand Islands region that spans from Kingston to Brockton along the Saint Lawrence. 

The park has several access points, including Mallorytown, home to an interactive visitors’ centre, and Gananoque, where we put in with the help of the local outfitter.

The only way to explore the majority of the park is by boat, but with motorized access allowed, there are plenty of options to choose from.

The Frontenac Arch Biosphere Reserve section of the park is home to a great number of endangered species including turtles, butterflies, snakes and birds. For all of the park’s biodiversity, I was mostly interested in turtles. We were promised a veritable host of turtles by the kayak shop employee, but in three days, we saw exactly one.

Jenn Williams

It was sunning itself on the dock at our first island campsite, languidly observing our muddy progress as we pulled our boats ashore, hulls sliding along the murky river bottom and up onto the waterlogged grass of the bank. 

Mosquitoes chased us from the water up the labyrinthine path to our designated campsite. I tried to remember the standard progression of insects from distant summers spent in Muskoka as a child—black flies to mosquitoes, and when did the deer flies come out? I thought mid-July was a bit late for this many mosquitoes, but I couldn’t be sure. The warm filter of nostalgia smooths over all manner of bug bites. Or maybe living in Vancouver had made me soft. I bathed in insect repellent while Roger and Jenn calmly unpacked their dry bags.

We pitched our tents on a site with waterfront access. It was the perfect place to eat one of Roger’s gourmet camp dinners and listen to the loons cry across the darkening water.

Day 2

Jenn Williams

We woke to the hum of yachts and chatter from the other campsite. We hurried through breakfast, eager to get out on the water and explore. Wandering around the campsite in a bathing suit, I debated whether or not to bother with pants, eventually reaching a compromise: I would bring them in the kayak, just in case.

With that sorted, we were off.

“Where did you hear that this was the least-visited national park in Canada?” I asked Jenn, who, in the talks leading up to the trip, had heard this from someone who had apparently been mistaken.

We were staring at a houseboat wedding. At least a dozen were lined up in a row, a giant pink balloon with the word “love” on it drifting among them. Someone was on a floating mattress in the river, trying to organize a group photo. 

A swarm of jet skis buzzed past, like an aquatic biker gang in bright pink and blue PFDs. The drone of speedboats in the distance rose and fell, their wakes gently rocking us up and down, back and forth.

Maybe it was just me, but Thousand Islands National Park didn’t feel very empty. 

Jenn Williams

With an estimated 88,520 visitors in the 2017-2018 season, two thirds of which were boaters, the park has among the fewest visitors of any National Park. (Compare that number with Banff’s 4.18 million visitors in the same year.)

Perhaps because of the prevalence of motorized boating, or because of the vulnerability of the species that call the park home, even the relatively small number of visitors threaten the biodiversity of the area.

It wasn’t even as busy as usual, we learned later that day from Tim, a Parks Canada ranger we met as we were clambering out of our boats onto a pile of half-submerged picnic tables. The dock at this particular island was crowded with speedboats and yachts, making docking our canoe and kayak difficult. We were hoping to find a quiet spot to enjoy the lunch we had packed. 

Jenn’s friendly questions melted Tim’s sternness as he lectured us about our choice of pull-out, and soon he was telling us everything he knew about the park. Partiers were a problem, he explained, but with cottagers’ islands sharing waterways with park islands, regulation was a matter of delicate negotiation. He told us about the Visitors’ Centre in Mallorytown, which housed aquariums showcasing the park’s aquatic life. Tim was proud to contribute to the aquarium by fishing.

According to Tim, the spring’s unprecedented flooding had kept many of the islands’ summer residents away, unwilling or unable to face the water lapping at their front doors. 

Nevertheless, the waterways were busy with yachts and motorboats, and the tranquility of our evening swim was punctuated by laughter from the group next door and the hum of twilight water-skiers passing by at regular intervals.

Day 3

Jenn Williams

We were determined to make the most of our final day in the park. There was an island we'd been eying that looked like the perfect spot for a picnic and some low-key cliff jumping, but the crowds had scared us off.

I didn’t even bother with the pretense of pants—they stayed packed. As we made our way to the island, discussion turned to the way Thousand Islands is managed.

While the aim of Parks Canada is “to protect, as a first priority, the natural and cultural heritage of our special places and ensure that they remain healthy and whole,” it has other priorities as well. Namely, “to foster public understanding, appreciation and enjoyment in ways that ensure the ecological and commemorative integrity of these places for present and future generations.” 

Striking a balance must be a complex task in any National Park, but here, with sound traveling over water and only so many islands to hide behind, the compromises were much easier for us to see.

We circled the final island of our trip, eventually locating a spot where we could safely secure the boats, and followed a narrow path through parched grass and underbrush to a rocky bluff on the quiet side of the island.

As Jenn and I crouched over our lunches in the crook of the small cliff, Roger jumped into the chilly St. Lawrence.

Jenn WilliamsThousand Islands National park is hard to make sense of. The true nature of the park seems changeable: an endangered butterfly delicately airing its wings on the bow of a mega yacht. It’s beautiful, but not always pretty. Its stewards seem committed, in the face of pressure from all sides, to finding the right balance.

On our way home, we decided to take a detour through Mallorytown and check on ranger Tim’s fish at the Visitor’s Centre. Plexiglass boxes held different species that live in the park; games and informative plaques taught the park’s natural history and the importance of conservation; smiling employees circulated offering explanations and chances to touch snake skin and rocks and to ask questions. Children played and laughed and, just maybe, began to understand why certain things are worth protecting.

Have you explored Thousand Islands National Park?

Tell us about your experience.

Comment below!

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Nothing says deer season quite like the roar of a rifle and the smell of gunpowder. Making the perfect shot on the buck of your dreams starts with choosing high-quality equipment.

Browning X-Bolt Pro Gen. 2

The X-Bolt Pro Gen. 2 is a featherweight 6.5 Creedmoor packed with premium features, including a 360-degree carbon fiber wrapped stock and burnt bronze Cerakote finish. The carbon is to credit for the rifle’s airy total weight (just a touch over 6 pounds), in addition to the spiral-fluted bolt and 22” sporter barrel. A fine touch, the threaded barrel comes with both a muzzle brake and protective shroud. browning.com

Kimber Model 84M Hunter

The Model 84M Hunter is now available in Realtree Edge camouflage, just because camo makes everything better. The 22” stainless-steel sporter barrel is protected by durable Kimpro all-weather black finish, and the adjustable trigger can be set between 3.5 and 4 pounds. The rifle weighs just 5.6 pounds and measures 41.25”. It’s available in a variety of cartridges, including the ever-popular 6.5 Creedmoor. kimberamerica.com

Mauser M18

Hailed as “The People’s Rifle,” the M18 is a versatile, finely crafted weapon virtually anyone can afford. The cold-hammered barrel and robust synthetic stock are both rugged and attractive, as are the soft grip and fore-end inlays. The detachable 5-round magazine is handy in the field, while the crisp-breaking action provides smooth, reliable feeding. For 2018, several capable whitetail cartridges are available. mauser.com

Mossberg Patriot Synthetic Cerakote

The Patriot Synthetic Cerakote rifle will defy Mother Nature’s worst. It’s chambered in .243 Win., has a 5-round magazine capacity and a fluted 22” stainless-steel barrel with a 1:10 twist rate, and weighs 6.5 pounds. An advanced Cerakote finish protects against rust and scratches, ensuring the rifle will withstand a lifetime of abuse in the deer woods. This is a great choice for shooters of all experience levels. mossberg.com

Remington Model Seven Threaded

Looking for a lightweight brush gun with a short barrel? The Model Seven Threaded is it. Available in .300 Blackout and .308 Win., it measures only 34.25” and weighs just 6 pounds. It’s finished in KUIU Vias camouflage and features the X-Mark Pro externally adjustable trigger. The .300 Blackout version has a 5-round magazine capacity and offers great low-recoil performance. remington.com

Ruger American Rifle

The American Rifle has received a makeover for 2018. It’s now available in Go Wild camo and comes complete with a stylish barrel finish, detachable magazine and muzzle brake. Additional features include a factory-installed one-piece aluminum scope rail, Power Bedding integral block and an adjustable trigger. This affordable rifle is capable of minute-of-angle accuracy. ruger.com

Savage 110 Storm

The 110 Storm rifle is not only outfitted with the time-tested AccuTrigger but also showcases the highly adaptable new AccuFit stock system, which makes adjusting your length-of-pull and comb height a breeze. The rifle includes a detachable box magazine, along with soft-grip hand surfaces to promote quick and easy handling. The rifle weighs 7.25 pounds and is available in an array of whitetail cartridges. savagearms.com

Smith & Wesson Performance Center M&P 10

The Performance Center M&P 10 is equally at home in the deer woods or on the range. It’s chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and comes with a two0-stage match trigger and 24” suppressor-ready 5-R rifled barrel. Additional features include a 15” free-float Troy M-LOK handguard and the Magpul MOE stock. The rifle measures 39.5” in overall length and weighs 9 pounds. smith-wesson.com

Winchester Model 70 Extreme Weather SS

The Model 70 Extreme Weather SS is now available in both .243 Win. and 6.5 Creedmoor. Its premier Bell and Carlson composite stock features a textured matte charcoal finish for ultimate protection. The rifle boasts an aluminum bedding block, matte stainless action and stainless-steel free-floating fluted barrel with a recessed target crown. The rifle weighs 6.75 pounds and measures 42.25” in overall length. winchesterguns.com

Browning BXS

The BXS line of big-game ammunition has expanded to include a host of popular whitetail cartridges, including a red-hot 120-grain 6.5 Creedmoor option. Controlled expansion and devastating penetration are achieved on game, thanks to the copper bullet’s polymer tip. Both attractive and effective, the nickel-plated shell case offers corrosion resistance and promotes controlled feeding. browningammo.com

Federal Edge TLR

Edge TLR ammunition is available for 2018 in three new cartridges, including 7mm Rem. Mag., .270 Win. and .270 WSM. The high-performance, heat-resistant polymer tip delivers match-grade accuracy and unparalleled penetration, creating more trauma at extended ranges. The copper shank and bonded lead core ensure weight retention while promising reliable expansion at velocities as low as 1350 fps. federalpremium.com

Hornady Precision Hunter

Precision Hunter ammunition delivers match-grade accuracy to big-game hunters. The ELD-X bullet with Heat Shield technology has been verified by Doppler radar to retain its shape under intense heat at extended ranges, and the high-grade propellant is loaded to uniform capacities for consistent results. Several new cartridges were released for 2018, including 6MM Creedmoor, 6.5 PRC and .270 WSM. hornady.com

Sig Sauer Elite Performance HT

The Elite Performance HT line of hunting ammunition has recently broadened to include a 6.5 Creedmoor offering. The all-copper bullet delivers deep penetration and consistent 1.8X diameter expansion. The 120-grain offering has a muzzle velocity of 2825 fps and generates 2126 ft-lbs of kinetic energy. All Sig HT cartridges incorporate premium nickel-plated cases and flash-reduced propellant. sigsauer.com

Winchester Deer Season XP Copper Impact

Deer Season XP Copper Impact delivers devastating terminal performance without sacrificing weight retention or expansion. The copper bullet features a large-diameter polymer tip and an engineered hollowpoint for greater knockdown power and more intense wound channels. It’s now available in .270 Win., .30-06 Springfield and .300 Win. Mag. winchester.com

This weekend I collected together my kit and tried out my first (purely 18th century) trip. The reason I point out purely is because like all outdoors folk and particularly bushcrafters the instinct is to pack back up kit (just in case) - well on this occasion I didn't - if things went wrong there would be no modern tech gear as a back up - I'd be relying totally on my skill, knowledge and the few items I carried.

My kit consisted of a Haversack and bedroll ...........

In said kit I carried the following items (as a by the by - I was surprised how little I actually carried)

Clothing wise, at least to period I had a cotton bandanna (tea dyed) and a Capote made from a Witney blanket. I also carried a scots Bonnet in forest green, a item typical of rangers and scouts and while to warm to wear in the day proved an amazingly warm cap at night and for sleeping in.

My shelter would have made the three little piggies proud as it was made of sticks ... I thatched it with pine bows initially then moss and finally a good layer of bracken. When the heavens did open I'm pleased to say my hard work (about 4 hours all told) paid off and apart from a few random wind blown drips I was snug as a bug.

My fire was built against a fallen tree root which acted as a reflector - I built a base of stone and sand (I was in a pine woodland after all)  and as the picture shows I built a crane for my billy and cooked my pork Es Appaloosa (or on a stick)

I will review the kit I carried in greater detail later - although over all I was amazed how little iI NEEDED and how well it all worked, although I would point out also that the little I needed I really needed! - with practise the kit really would be all I needed - carry less by knowing more - for sure.

Cons -

• my bedroll as I didn't have a tumpline was carried on 9mm Cordage - this was like hiking wearing barbed wire - very painful as it bit into my shoulders.
• My bedding made from pine and bracken proved to be Ticksville and I returned how with a small private party of the buggers eating me (oddly the dog didn't have a one) 
• It was hard work building the shelter and gathering the materials needed - but I guess getting toughened to the trail would sort that out.

Source: http://survivall.blogspot.com/2018/07/three-little-piggies.html

I feel a bit sheepish saying this, but sometimes the hardest part of getting out family out on adventures is planing food. Food for beforehand, food for during and food ready when we get home. Some pretty awesome adventure days have ended in a really stressful dinner situation because I simply didn’t plan ahead. The crew comes home hangry and I’ve got nothing. OR I choose to skip out on a spontaneous evening outing just to get dinner ready and get tired kiddos to bed. I spend hours and hours in the kitchen…and, despite some help from the rest of the family, it easily turns into the most stressful part of my day.

I’d really rather be heading out on a bike ride at 4 pm with the crew to ward off a nasty bout of the witching hour, but until I found Wildtree that really was rarely possible.

What is Wildtree? So glad you asked. I think you’ll love it just as much as this outdoor family has. It’s meant LESS time in the kitchen and MORE time outside while maintaining a healthy diet for our family.

Wildtree is:

• Thoughtful Ingredients.
• Wholesome Products.
• Mindful Meals.

They provide meal planning solutions to help take the brain-work out of shopping, prepping, planning and serving meals. The products are all certified organic and are free of any “junk”.

Wildtree does NOT contain any of the following:

While there are more options besides these, their freezer meal kits are what have saved my sanity. I spend a couple hours prepping for the month, and then pull meals out of our freezer when we need one (which is almost every day).

It has meant more of this:

and this:

We also often take the meals camping with us, which means less grumpy kids because they are eating junk over the weekend (win, win!)

The freezer meal kits come with shopping lists, prep checklists and instructions, labels for the bags and all the spices and oils you need. You provide the perishable items (which means you can choose which meats and veggies you put in!)

Allergies in your family? Don’t check out yet. We have something that will work for you too (which is why it is SOOO great!)

On a tight budget? When I do all the math, these meals cost us about $3/serving. AND the brainwork is all done for me. Have a I mentioned these have completely saved my sanity???

I will be doing a special ONLINE Wildtree workshop next week just for outdoor families. It has helped me so immensely, that I want to pass that on to you too. We’re in this together, Mama! UPDATE: We will do this again in September if you missed the one in August!

Check out my Mountain Mama Wildtree Facebook page here anytime to keep up on what’s happening! Not on Facebook? Totally ok with me. I am happy to tell you all about it too. Email me at [email protected]

© 2018, Tales of a Mountain Mama. All rights reserved. Republication, in part or entirety, requires a link back to this original post and permission from the author.

Podcast: Download (Duration: 20:18 — 19.5MB)

Show Notes: Episode 190

Today on the First 40 Miles, what you may have thought of as an essential piece of backpacking gear isn’t as indispensable as you think.  Today, we’re going stoveless, and we’ll share some delicious ways to ditch the stove for your next trip.  Then we’ll taste test a whole food, energy bar that has some sneaky vegetables added.  And we’ll share a thru hiker’s go to container for soaking their meals.

Opening

• As we prepare for summer trips, I keep looking for ways to lighten my pack.
• And besides doing an complete gear overhaul and purchasing all new, ultralight equipment, there are other clever ways to cut pounds—while actually saving money.
• Top 5 Benefits of Stoveless Cooking (episode 44)
• Healthier options, faster, cheaper, simple

Top 5 Easy Go-To Stoveless Meals

Muesli

• Muesli is a DIY breakfast cereal, also known as Overnight Oats
• Made a batch of this for our last backpacking trip, and just put it in a zip top sandwich bag, poured in some water, waited a few minutes, then ate it.
• Rolled oats (instant or old-fashioned—it doesn’t matter), chia, coconut milk or cow milk powder like NIDO, chopped dried fruits, nuts, seeds
• Filling, full of fiber, tastes great cold

Tortilla Wraps

• Peanut butter
• Salami, cheese, and mustard
• Tuna packet with or without mayo
• Powdered bean dips like hummus or refried beans are full of fiber
• We even have those foil tuna packets that come with mayo and flavoring added.
• You can also substitute the tortillas for crackers for some crunch and variety

Soaked Grain

• Not all grains work—they have to be pre-cooked grains, like bulgar, or instant rice.
• Can be made in a plastic, screw top lidded jar
• 60-90 minutes to rehydrate grains, which can be done while you hike or in camp
• Instant Brown Rice
• Rice Pilaf (with nuts, seeds, etc.)
• Couscous mixes (not technically a soaked grain…more like a mini pasta made with refined flour)
• You can add flavoring packets
• Add in dried mushrooms, dried onions
• Seaweed, tuna, chicken, dried fruit/veg, nutritional yeast, nuts, seeds, nut butter, nido, powdered stuff, dehydrated refried beans, hot sauce,

Pre-made Bars

• Make your own with recipes from our book, Trail Grazing
• GreenBelly
• Powerbar etc.
• Lara Bars
• Whatever you pick, give yourself a good selection

Ramen Noodles

• Ramen noodles can be soaked in water and eaten.
• Mix with peanut butter + soy sauce
• Rehydrate some freeze dried peas
• Add garlic powder and shaved hard cheese like Asiago or Romano

Structure

• Short, easy ingredient list
• No surprises

Utility

• A great “no cook” option for breakfast or lunch

Mass

Maintenance

Investment

• $1-1.50 a bar
• Frequently our grocery store has a 10 for $10 sale

Trial

• Good texture, good flavor
• Can’t really taste the “greens”

Backpack Hack of the Week™:   Talenti Gelato (Ice Cream) Jar for Soaking Meals

• Classy looking, good size, squatty jar, tight lid
• Easy to find

Trail Wisdom

“Great things are done when men and mountains meet;
This is not done by jostling in the street.”
—William Blake